Islamic Cairo, old Cairo and the bazaar

Islamic Cairo was once an important medieval part of the city, featured by sizzling bazaar( Khan Al khalili), oldest surviving Islamic university (Al-Azhar Mosque), restored entrances, gates and walls and of course touts. We were overwhelmingly welcomed to Al Azhar Mosque and pushed to get on a free tour with a senior working in the Mosque. At the end of tour, we were asked to "voluntarily" donate to the institute and tip him for his service. After we put what we think right amount, we were told that's not enough. Apparently in this case, a large US dollar bill or Euro bill is more welcomed.Khan Al Khalili is indeed of a hustle & bustle. It can be a very fun walk if you don't mind being followed by tours along the way. There are the city's most historic and architecturally significant madrases. Among the hustle and bustle, is the Islam scholarship seriously undergoing in some nice and quiet corners of a mosque or a madrases. Next to the Islamic Cairo is the fascinating Northern Cemetery (known as the "City of the Dead"). There is the biggest slum in Cairo. Some areas have become a shared living space for the poor live and the dead. Our the most daunting experience though is to cross a five lane highway. We made it with an assistance of a local.
Compared with Islamic Cairo, old Cairo is a quite and neat area, a home to the Coptic Christian community.
One night when I stayed at Cairo, I made a trip to the bazaar at the Islamic Cairo. It's more lively at night with flower boys threading the crowd carrying the tea pot with long spout sticking out. I watched Sufi dance - men dance with their blankets in a graceful way.