
Nungwi is a superb beach in the north of Zanzibar. The long white sandy beach stretched out miles with all sorts of beach resorts from five star beach hotels to humble bungalows lining up from east to west and modest African village in the back yard. Colorful Masai
is a paramount element of Nungwi beach.

We stayed at one of the bandas at Casa Umuja. Casa Umuja has 2 cozy and cute bungalows. There is a lovely garden, a few canvas hammocks and a friendly and canny manager named Mosun. Mosun is well exposed to western cultures and speaks perfect English.

I was very impressed with the three characters of Nungwi and thought they made the beach very unique: the enormous beach hotels including several five star luxury ones ( I think the hotel rooms they offer are probably 10 times of the local population); the colorful Masai presence on the white coral sand; the contrast between the local village and the water front first class world.

The first night Jose and I walked around the village for some cheap treat. It's Ramadan night and local villagers got together with family for Ramadan diner. We didn't have good luck of finding any decent local food expect that Jose bought a bottle of South African wine. Mosun was our DJ that night. He has a great taste on music. He played a mix of Spanish and American songs for us. We sat on the chairs and lied on the canvas hammocks, watching stars till I started to feel mosquito and insects biting me.


I spent the second day on the beach alone. Following a beach walk and a visit to the local fish market, Mosun was nice enough to offer me free breakfast. After breakfast, I started a long walk from the west side to east side of the beach in spite of high tide. At low tide the sea recedes a long way and walking though the beach is possible. It was high tide. I had to cut though to the back dirt road and walked all the way to the eastern most hotel " La Germa" and cut through a side path back to the beach.The east side was a paradise. Some beach resorts are strikingly luxury. Unfortunately due to the global economic recession, the beach resorts were pretty empty. I enjoyed swimming in the warm water and hanging out on the white gorgeous sand. I felt so free and relaxed that afternoon.
I made Jose and myself dinner at Mosun's kitchen. I made vegetable stew and Chapati for dinner. After dinner I went to Cholo's next door for a drink. Cholo's has Nungwi's best bar. I ordered a cocktail made of passion fruit and Blanca. That was the first and best cocktail I had on the Africa trip. A local young man named Saife took Jose and me to a beach party at Kandewa. It was a mixed crowd dancing in a beach bar. There was a bonfire on the beach where people sat around. It was an interesting vibe where Masai, locals and tourists all mingled and danced under stars.
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